The Marais is one of the oldest sections of Paris, and one of the best to tour on foot. The French aristocracy built its palaces there during the Renaissance, in proximity to the king’s residence and Paris’ first royal square, now the Place des Vosges. When newer districts became more fashionable, only the minor nobles remained. Eventually they left, too, deserting their grand houses.
Le Marais became the Jewish quarter as Paris continued to expand. Today the district retains its narrow, crooked streets, having been spared from the massive 19th Century reconstruction of Paris that transformed it into a modern capital instead of a medieval city.
On our second morning walk through Le Marais, we found a synagogue designed by the Art Nouveau architect Hector Guimard. Guimard’s wife was Jewish, according to our tour guide. There were still five synagogues in the district, as well as Jewish schools, bookstores, and Kosher food shops.
Art Nouveau faҫade of the Agoudas Keheilos synagogue by Guimard, of Paris Metro gates renown
Also in Le Marais was the Paris History Museum, opened in the Hôtel Carnavalet in 1880. Admission was free, and the museum was well curated, with informative as well as decorative exhibits. Its inner courtyard contained the only statue of Louis XIV, the Sun King, to have escaped destruction during the French Revolution. All of the other such royal monuments
throughout Paris were replicas. Pieces of the smashed original bronzes were on display in the museum.
Statue of Louis XIV in the courtyard of the Hôtel Carnavalet, by the 17th Century sculptor Antoine Coysevox
HL and I followed the Parisians’ example and relaxed in the Place des Vosges, once the Place Royal. It was the oldest of the royal squares, enclosed by arcade-like pavilions and shaded by symmetrical borders of linden trees. Lawns, paths, benches, and flowerbeds relieved the formality of the fountains and the equestrian statue of Louis XIII that dominated the park. It was a refuge from urban noise and congestion that enticed us to linger, and so we did.
One of the four fountains in the Place des Vosges, dating from 1825
Young mother and child in the Place des Vosges
Couple on a bench in the Place des Vosges
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