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Current Events 43: The Cathedral of Saint Sava/ Hram Svetog Save, Part 2

June 11, 2021 - The secular creed of Communism had not eradicated Serbian Orthodoxy; rather, it was Communism that had been a temporary...
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Current Events 42: The Cathedral of Saint Sava/ Hram Svetog Save, Part 1

June 04, 2021 - One might have thought that Tito's memorial would be Belgrade's premier tourist attraction. That distinction, however, b...
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Current Events 41: The Veterans

May 27, 2021 - Radi, our guide, was determined that her tour group should have contact with natives wherever we went. She had arranged...
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Current Events 40: The House of Flowers

April 08, 2021 - Nowhere was the Serbian nation's devotion to its former leader more evident than at Marshal Tito's tomb. Tito was releas...
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Current Events 39: Cramped Quarters

October 17, 2019 - Belgrade had the worst traffic that we had encountered. The city's population was over a million and a half, and there s...
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Current Events 38: The City of Dogs

October 10, 2019 - Belgrade is a city of dogs. In Kalemegdan Park, they were everywhere we went. Some were leashed, while others trotted, u...
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Current Events 37: The Victor

October 03, 2019 - Exploring beautiful Kalemegdan Park in its entirety would have taken all of the time that our tour had allotted for Belg...
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Current Events 36: The Fortress of Kalemegdan, Belgrade

September 26, 2019 - No one is certain how much of the Kalemegdan fortress is below ground, as the network of tunnels has not been mapped com...
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Current Events 35: Entering the White City

September 19, 2019 - We docked at Belgrade after cruising overnight from Novi Sad. We were in Serbia's capital for the hottest day of our jou...
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Current Events 34: Vegetarians at Salas 137

September 12, 2019 - I suppose that HL and I could not have been the first vegetarians to dine at Salas 137, but there cannot have been many.
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Current Events 33: Salas 137

September 05, 2019 - From Novi Sad, the tour group traveled by bus to a traditional Serbian restaurant for dinner. During the ride, there was...
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Current Events 32: Beneath Petrovaradin

August 29, 2019 - After the guides from our ship gave us our tickets, they delivered us into the care of an official Petrovaradin tour gui...
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Current Events 31: The Eyes of Petrovaradin

August 22, 2019 - We were given a choice of activities in Novi Sad, and we elected to ascend the hill to Petrovaradin. Two of the guides,...
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Current Events 30: The Synagogue in Novi Sad

August 15, 2019 - Thanks to our guide Radi's accurate directions, we were able to find the main synagogue in Novi Sad. In 1905, the Jewish...
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Current Events 29: Novi Sad, Past and Future Cultural Capital

August 08, 2019 - From the park we progressed to Novi Sad's historic main street. It was closed to vehicular traffic. The dock was at the...
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Current Events 28: The Bridges of Novi Sad

July 31, 2019 - In Danube Park, Novi Sad Our guide Milena directed us through Danube Park as she explained the history of Novi Sad. We...
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Current Events 27: Novi Sad, Serbia

July 25, 2019 - The ship sailed while we slept and we awoke in Serbia, we passengers having been spared the attentions of border control...
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Current Events 26: A Rally in Vukovar

July 18, 2019 - The liveliest area of Vukovar was a paved strip near the Vuka River channel. There we encountered a gaggle of several do...
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Current Events 25: Vukovar, its Swings and Arrows

July 11, 2019 - It was early evening when HL and I decided to stroll through Vukovar. Adjacent to the dock was a lawn where what appeare...
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Current Events 24: Vukovar, Croatia

July 04, 2019 - We met our ship at Vukovar, Croatia's largest river port, where The Danube joins The Vuka. Osijek bore signs of shelling...
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Current Events 23: Lunch with Rejna, continued.

June 27, 2019 - Seated at the head of the table, Rejna described her labors. She was quite an industrious young woman. Earning one's liv...
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Current Events 22: Lunch with Rejna

June 20, 2019 - The tour company touted a home-hosted (sic) lunch as a special feature. HL and I had been apprehensive about this lunch...
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Current Events 21: No Lack of Monuments (After the Children's Concert in Osijek)

June 13, 2019 - I was touched by the children's buoyant mood, though I should not have minded in the slightest if the stop at the school...
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Current Events 20: A Concert in Osijek

June 06, 2019 - One of our destinations in Osijek was an elementary school, where the students regaled us with a concert. The tour compa...
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Current Events 19: Osijek, Croatia

May 30, 2019 - We docked in Batina, a tiny river port in eastern Croatia. Eastern Croatia is the section that does not include the Dalm...
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Current Events 18: Pajama Party on The Danube

May 23, 2019 - I wished that we could spend another week in Budapest, but we had to return to the ship on our second night there to beg...
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Current Events 17: The Alexandra Bookstore

May 16, 2019 - I have to thank our guide from the boat, Radi, for suggesting that we repair to the Alexandra Bookstore after the Opera...
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Current Events 16: The Hungarian State Opera House

May 09, 2019 - While the guide explained the history and design of the three-tiered Opera House, he had us sit in the plush chairs in t...
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Current Events 15: A Walk on Andrassy Avenue

May 02, 2019 - We consulted a map before setting out for the Opera House, a landmark that we had glimpsed during the previous day's cit...
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Current Events 14: Mystery Lunch in the Jewish Quarter

April 25, 2019 - We ate in a ramshackle falafel joint where we could not tell what we had ordered, owing to the girl cashier's limited En...
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Current Events 13: The Synagogue on Kazinczy Street

April 18, 2019 - Near the Great Synagogue on Dohany was a much smaller, Orthodox one on Kazinczy Street. It was about a century old. The...
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Current Events 12: The Tree's Testimony

April 11, 2019 - In the synagogue courtyard stands a monument to the Swedish diplomat Raoul Wallenberg. It acknowledges Wallenberg's cour...
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Current Events 11: Cries from the Stones

April 04, 2019 - The most unusual feature of the Dohany was not the pipe organ nor the cathedral-like construction, but its graveyard. Sy...
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Current Events 10: The Phoenix

March 28, 2019 - The Great Synagogue of Budapest opened in 1859, during a period of official toleration. The Moorish style was in vogue a...
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Current Events 9: The Great Synagogue on Dohany Street

March 21, 2019 - The tour of the Jewish Quarter was an optional one, that is, available for an additional fee. There was no question that...
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Current Events 8: Between Buda and Pest by Night

June 21, 2018 - My second night aboard ship provided me with my first unique cruising memory, Budapest by Night. At the beginning of the...
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Current Events 7: Budapest's Great Market Hall

June 14, 2018 - The guides procured tram tickets for us so that we could explore some of Budapest on our own, and HL and I were among th...
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Current Events 6: Iron Shoes

June 06, 2018 - Our ship was docked very close to Budapest's most original memorial sculpture, Shoes on the Danube Promenade. Af ter a s...
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Current Events 5: The Humanitarian

January 30, 2018 - Fisherman's Bastion is a Neo-Gothic terrace affording views of The Danube. Its turrets and archways are ideal backdrops...
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Current Events 4: Castle Hill, Budapest

January 25, 2018 - There were other tourists milling around the royal palace enclosure, but not masses of them. Much of Buda Castle now hou...
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Current Events 3: Captain and Crew

January 24, 2018 - Peter, the ship's captain, was a Hungarian who looked younger than his years, despite the weight of responsibility for t...
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Current Events 2: The Ship

January 19, 2018 - It was in Budapest that HL and I met our ship, the M/S River Aria. HL had arranged in advance for a cab to convey us fro...
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Current Events: My Cruise on the Lower Danube River

January 16, 2018 - I made my first trip to Europe with Miri, when she and I were still in our teens. We worked and wheedled to get the fund...
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