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Current Events 73: The Crossing

August 18, 2022 - We reurned to Ruse for our last night aboard the M/S River Aria. Towards the end of our farewell dinner, the chefs and t...
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Current Events 72: The Black Sea

August 10, 2022 - Our final stop in Varna was at the Sunny Days resort complex, where at last I could gaze upon the Black Sea. I looked ac...
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Current Events 71: Rosh HaShanah in Varna

August 04, 2022 - Varna's population had increased steadily in the post-Communist era, and exceeded 330,000 by the time that we arrived. U...
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Current Events 70: Lola

July 28, 2022 - Radi enticed her husband, Nenad, to come to the Thermae to meet the members of her group. He brought their black and whi...
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Current Events 69: The Thermae

July 21, 2022 - In Classical times, Varna was a Greek trading colony called Odessos. Successive empires realized the value of the Black...
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Current Events 68: The Gold of Varna

July 12, 2022 - Our bus halted at Varna's Archeological Museum. The museum was in a Neoclassical building from the 1880's that had been...
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Current Events 67: The Martenitsa

July 06, 2022 - Though there was an excellent highway from Ruse to Varna, two hundred kilometers was a long ride in a bus. Radi's spirit...
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Current Events 66: Changing Course

June 29, 2022 - From Arbanassi, the bus did not return us to Nikopol, where we had breakfasted. Instead, we went to a berth downriver, a...
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Current Events 65: More Oddities of Arbanassi

June 22, 2022 - We ended our afternoon in Arbanassi on a steep street where artisans produced jewelry, pottery, and embroidered linens f...
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Current Events 63: Arbanassi

June 09, 2022 - Velikovo Tarnovo's population was close to 70,000. Velikovo, meaning "great", had been added to the name in 1908, when i...
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Current Events 59: The Abandoned Synagogue

May 12, 2022 - As we walked from Baba Vida back towards the town center, I heard a riot of barking and growling. Suddenly, a pack of do...
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Current Events 58: Baba Vida

May 05, 2022 - Bulgaria had been a formidable kingdom during the early Middle Ages. A remnant of Bulgaria's former might was the fortre...
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Current Events 57: The Faces of the Dead

April 27, 2022 - The Bulgarians have a custom that I had never encountered anywhere else, and it was in Vidin that I was introduced to it...
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Current Events 56: A Mosque in Vidin

April 21, 2022 - The mosque was not much larger than a private house. A black-bearded man of perhaps forty ushered our group into a room...
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Current Events 55: Vidin, Bulgaria, Part 2

April 13, 2022 - Vidin had a modern central plaza with marble and bronze monuments to soldiers who had died in a plethora of wars. Even w...
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Current Events 54: Vidin, Bulgaria, Part 1

April 07, 2022 - On the morning after our passage through the Iron Gates, the ship docked in Bulgaria. The river port of Vidin was in the...
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