I might have  missed one of the most extraordinary experiences of our trip because I was misled by the way that it was listed on the group’s itinerary.  On our first morning after docking in Arles,  we were scheduled to go to a bull ranch.  I was less than enthusiastic about getting on a bus at 8:30 AM for a 40-minute ride into the countryside, just to expand my knowledge of raising animals for a cruel sport.  The tour directors, however, enticed us with talk of driving past wetlands where we might spot two varieties of flamingos, among other wildlife.

         Arles is situated at the northern edge of The Rhône River delta.  It was not until we were riding through the salt marshes that I realized that we were in The Camargue, the habitat of herds of white horses for millennia. 

          Some of these horses, related to the oldest Eurasian breeds, are still wild.  Most, however, live on manades, the Provençal term for bull-raising ranches.  Some of the Camargue horses are trained to work with the native bulls.  The horses are domesticated but not confined.  They spend their lives outdoors, unshod, eating only the grasses that nourished their ancestors.  They are extremely hardy and free of disease.  Their hooves are adapted to the marshy ground.

         The riders call themselves gardians, or guardians.  Every horse has only one rider throughout its life, and many of the horses are never broken to the saddle.

         One of the owners of the Manade Laurent, Estelle, explained much about her bulls and horses to us.  The Camargue bulls are not hurt or killed in the local sport, appropriately styled a show.  I plan to write more on that topic in the continuation of this description. 

Madame Estelle Laurent was the consummate guide to her family's manade. 

The mares and foals stay together.  Camargue horses are born dark and turn grey, then white, usually by the age of ten.

 The youngest foal was under two months old.  She was named Olympique, in honor of the 2024 games' being held in Paris.

         We were given a tour of the manade in an open wagon.  I had never imagined that I would see any of the fabled white Camargue horses, much less touch one.  I was as thrilled as if I had encountered a herd of unicorns.

The mares are accustomed to the presence of humans.  They are friendly and, when young, quite curious.